Feature Wine

2014 Saint Romain Rouge, Sous Roches

Bottle Price: $68

Rebels with a cause, the Cossards, Fréderic and Laure, are headliners of the (still tiny) natural wine movement in the Côte d’Or. A relative newcomer to making wine in Burgundy, Fréderic started his domaine in 1996 with some small parcels in Saint-Romain and has since amassed choice parcels in Volnay and Pommard. They also maintain the negociant label “Fréderic Cossard” which rents and organically farms parcels in Beaujolais and the Côte de Nuits.

Mind-bendingly good, Fréd’s wines burst with life and energy. Each red slowly evolves in the glass, opening with a fruity, Beaujolais-like charm before tightening into very serious wines reminiscent of the greatest offerings of the Côte d’Or. Much like the man himself, Fréd’s wines are full of surprises.

Fréderic is no cossard! He could be a study in psychological effect one’s name has on oneself; Cossard, translates to “lazy person.” This couldn’t be more opposite of his nature, and the obvious reason the domaine doesn’t carry his name. Inspired to become a vigneron at age four, he set the course in search of the holy grail of wines. Seldom found in the Côte d’Or, calculated risks in Fred’s case are informed by observation and reverence for mother earth, with the imagined echo of the ancient Burgundian taste a compass in his wines.

Completely different from his angelic wines, Fréd is like a charming, mischievous kid down the street, melding the polarizing genius of Beethoven and the provocative antics of punk rock (lyrics included). Clearly an inspired vigneron with a green thumb in the vines and wizard’s magic in the cellar, he loves to keep his immediate audience off-balance with the dance of his charm and sharp wit.

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