Domaine Collet - 2014 Chablis, 1er Cru Mont de Milieu
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Inside the Bottle: It could be said that in the lineup of Collet’s premier cru Chablis, this might be the frontrunner, not on volume and impression, but perhaps in balance. Given the diversity of its soils that are a near perfect combination of the east and west banks the river that divide the two main Chablis premier cru zones, it may be the most complex of all. The wine hasn’t a hair out of place while it exhibits its straight edges of mineral, wet stone, contained weight and striking finesse. MdM is the MVP that quietly wins the game of pedigree rather than excitement.
Terroir: Mont de Millieu is one of the most rare bottlings of the great premier crus of Chablis. Located south of the Grand Cru slopes and the highest praised premier cru, Montee de Tonnerre, it is perhaps the most quietly versatile vineyard in Chablis. On this side of the river, it is easy to see (but not talked about) that the slopes here have a tremendous amount of the Portlandian soil mixed in with the soil. Many times, I scour the topsoils in search of Kimmeridgian rocks but they are outmatched by Portlandian by a great measure; some more than others. Mont de Milieu has the great range of characters that are divided between these two limestones with a more shallow topsoil loaded with pebbles and marne. The soil here is much deeper than you will find with the premier crus across the river (Vaillons, Montmains, Foret and Butteaux.) but not deeper than the profound soils of Montee de Tonnerre or the even deeper soils of the Grand Crus.