About The Wine
Named after Fabio’s mild-mannered grandfather, Feldo is a blend of ancient Piemontese red grapes and is the ultimate party wine for an Italian feast. It has gobs of festive aromas and flavors (at least compared to other wines in an area known for often producing more solemn, strict wines in their youth), with not a single dash of pretension—it’s well-made Northern Italian glou glou. Its rustic, playful flavors evoke those of an ancient Italian culture and are perfect for full-flavored food, like cured ham, braised meat, pasta and pizza. There’s a lot of seriousness tucked in there too—no surprise considering the perfectionism with which these guys organically farm their vineyards and work in the cellar. It’s a blend of 70-year-old vines on a single acre plot mixed with 50% Nebbiolo (the serious and noble side), 25% Croatina (the rustic and jovial barbarian) and 25% Vespolina (one of Nebbiolo’s rough around the edges parents that brings even more expanse and aroma to the wine). As I’m now entering my twenty-fifth year of obsession with wine (noted in 2020), I am much more open to blended grapes than I used to be. Perhaps it’s just a phase, but when considering the effects of a terroir (the bedrock, soil, climate, etc.) the grapes just don’t seem as important to me as they used to be. Ancient terroirs and intuitive caretakers chose the grapes that best express their regional characteristic traits, not the other way around. Feldo is a beautiful expression of this unique terroir of volcanic sands that were beachfront property a few million years ago.
Some extra details: All the grapes are thrown into the fermentation vat together for more than three weeks, then pressed and raised in old 225-liter barrels for a year. One of the reasons why this wine is so fun the moment the cork is pulled is that Fabio uses SO2 sparingly (only administered at bottling and with 30ppm in total), allowing the wine to immediately show off, without any reservations.
La Vignetta, an almost seventy-year-old one-acre vineyard entirely within the Lessona appellation, is on very sandy soil with about 25% clay and limestone (the latter being an unusual geological formation in these parts, and more akin to soils further south in Piedmont’s Langhe wine region). This soil combination contributes lift to the aroma (the sand’s contribution) and suppleness to the palate (the clay and limestone). Once the cork is popped it’s no wonder that these guys love making and drinking this wine.