Weingut Emmerich Knoll

The Story

When well-versed wine aficionados speak of the very best producers in Austria, Knoll is often mentioned in their first breath. Emmerich Knoll, a third generation vigneron, took over from his father (another Emmerich) and hardly missed a beat along the way. The wines at this estate speak of a place as much as any wine in the world, not only in terroir but in style. They are unique in expression and unfold slowly in the glass to reveal extraordinary complexities that can take you to flavors and aromas that feel like you are tasting something of great tradition with modern refinement. They are unarguably some of the best wines made in the world and once you’ve had one, especially with that label, it is impossible to forget them.

Lay of the Land

A UNESCO World Heritage site, Austria’s Wachau gorge is home to arguably the most prestigious winegrowing region in the country, and its most visually stunning. The eastern border is west of Vienna by about an hour drive and begins in a town called Unterloiben. It runs through the river gorge thirteen or so kilometers ending in Spitz, a town that marks the far western end of the winegrowing areas along the river.

Though one of the coolest winegrowing regions in Austria (not only in temperature, but also in vibe), the Wachau is located in an area strongly affected by opposing climatic influences. Warm Pannonian winds move in from the east and collide with colder Atlantic and Alpine winds insulated by the wilderness surrounding the gorge, which creates a tug-of-war of extremes between day and nighttime temperatures during the summer and fall. Much less than in the past, before the hydroelectric dams were installed and slowed its vigorous pace, the Danube River regulates temperatures and mitigates some risk of spring frost. Knoll’s vineyards are all located on the far eastern end of the Wachau gorge in its most warm zone, however still considered a cold climate wine region.

On the steeply terraced hills principally composed of Gföhler gneiss (orthogneiss) and other ancient igneous and metamorphic bedrock formations with a thin, gravelly decomposition of the bedrock itself is the kind of stressful environment where Riesling thrives best. By contrast, Austria’s most popular (and common) white wine grape, Gruner Veltliner, typically grows lower down the slopes on more löss (also spelled loess, or löess) dominated soils mixed with river sand and alluvium. Grüner Veltliner needs to be coddled to find its glory, and the nutrient rich and high water retentive qualities of löss are perfect.

Knoll Gruner Ried Kreutles Federspiel

Weingut Emmerich Knoll - 2017 Grüner Veltliner, Ried Kreutles, Smaragd

Price: $38.00
Size: 750ml
Availability:

Out of stock

Type of Wine: White
Grape(s): Grüner Veltliner
Style: Mineral, Medium Body

INFORMATION DISCLAIMER

Terroir: The Wachau is located in an area strongly affected the opposing climatic influence of warm Pannonian winds from the east and colder Atlantic and Alpine winds insulated by the wilderness surrounding the gorge, which creates a tug-of-war of extremes between summer and autumn day and nighttime temperatures. The Danube River also regulates temperatures and mitigates some risk of spring frost, which is especially important in lower lying vineyards such as Ried Kreutles. Grüner Veltliner typically grows lower down the slopes on löss (also spelled loess, or löess) soils and along the Danube deposited river sand and alluvium. It’s a grape that needs to be coddled to find its glory, and the nutrient rich and high water retentive qualities of the deep löss deposits in Kreutles make for a perfect Smaragd.

Vinification: Smaragd Grüner Veltliners and Rieslings are treated more or less the same in the vinification. Grapes are hand harvested, then crushed to break all the berries and macerated with stems for 1-8 hours (rarely longer); considerations are based on the season, grape temperature and logistic needs in the winery. The grapes are not gently pressed/handled in order to encourage the extraction of more phenolic compounds. The juice is settled overnight, racked off the heavy sediments to another tank or large foudre (1000l-4500l). Fermentations last 7-10 days and are either spontaneous (≈20%) or with cultured neutral yeast (≈80%)—temps between 24-27°C. The first sulfite addition is made a week or more after fermentations are complete, usually at the first racking. Malolactic fermentation is not desired and rarely happens.

Aging: Aged on fine lees for about 7-8 months without bâtonnage. Smaragd wines have more or less the same percentage of wood: Grüner Veltliner in 80% large foudre/20% stainless steel and Riesling in 40-50% large foudre (1000l-4500l) and the difference in stainless steel. The oldest foudres are from the late 1950s and get replaced when needed. Grüner is fined and filtered. Riesling is not fined but filtered.

(Subjective and based on young wines)

Ageability:

Drink YoungShort-Term BenefitsLong-Term BenefitsUnknown

Technical Precision:

NatureModerateNurture

Tannin:

NoneLightMediumFull

Wood Presence:

NoneSubtleNoticeable

The Vineyard

Soil:

The Kreutles vineyard at the foot of the Loibenberg is formed from loess (a fertile and calcareous glacial sediment that is transported by wind), decomposed gneiss sand originating from Loibenberg and a small quantity of river cobbles.

Farming:

SustainableOrganic CertifiedBiodynamic CertifiedUncertified Naturalist

Irrigation:

ForbiddenNeverSometimes

Vine Age:

A large range from young to very old

Altitude (meters):

212-231

Aspect:

South

Slope:

Relatively Flat
(typical numbers; not vintage specific)

Enological Additions:

Sulfur Dioxide. Bentonite, a natural clay fining agent used for taking heat unstable proteins (the potential haze) from wine.

Total SO2:

None AddedVery LowLowMediumHigh

Alcohol:

13 - 13.50

pH:

N/A

Titratable Acidity:

5.0-6.5

Residual Sugar:

>4

Notes compiled in 2019 by Ted Vance (The Source) and Emmerich Knoll with some technical references from Vinea-Wachau.at