David Duband

David Duband Burgundy Winemaker

The Story

When I first met David, he didn’t speak much English. These days it flows gracefully off his tongue as someone born speaking it.  Much like his brisk improvement in English, the quality and integrity of his wines and vineyards has advanced at a rapid pace since he took over in 1991, while still attending winemaking school. In 1999 he abandoned conventional farming and by 2006 was completely organic.  An overhaul of his vineyard protocol was a dramatic step that allowed an evolution in David’s winemaking style, which has become more sensitive, more precise, in an attempt to articulate a more intimate engagement with his terroir.  Over the last five vintages or so, he extracts less, uses less oak and has increased his percentage of whole cluster fermentations. These changes and the beauty of the plots he purchased from Jacky Truchot (now-retired, but in his day a vigneron with terrific collection of very old vineyards and a cult following of Burgundy lovers), David’s wines are turning the heads of both his colleagues in Burgundy and wine lovers around the world.

Lay of the Land

It would be hard for a wine Francophile to not be familiar with Burgundy and its famous sub-region, Côte de Nuits. The Côte de Nuits is the most northern part of the central area of Burgundy; of course, there are many appellations further to the north such as Chablis and many other smaller ones. This region is known to reach the highest of highs with one of the worlds most exceptional grapes, Pinot Noir. The general soil composition of the area is very complex and can be oversimplified by naming limestone and clay as the dominant features. The climate brings quite a variation in vintages (even more so recently) which can change the quality of a vintage over night, as it has done many times, with a single hailstorm. It is a region of reverence by the world’s wine elite and has nearly priced itself out of the hands of the average consumer. However, when they are good, they are worth every penny.

David Duband - 2017 Nuits Saint Georges Rouge, 1er Cru Aux Thorey

Price: $105.00
Size: 750ml
Availability:

Out of stock

Type of Wine: Red
Grape(s): Pinot Noir
Style: Mineral, Rustic

The Wine

This wine is the most persuasive response to those who snub Nuits-Saint-Georges as a village with too much grit and too little finesse. Indeed its confident, tannic grip may not appeal to those who insist Burgundy be over-refined, forgetting it can have structure and muscle. However, this wine grown from 60 year-old vines facing south and southeast shows wonderful elegance and subtlety in its savory range of characters.

The soils are small limestone fragments and clay, unlike those from the southern hill with harder stones, which generally make harder wines by comparison. The high elevation of the vineyard and a 70% whole cluster fermentation, restrains an obvious, low-hanging fruitiness. The result is a wine of striking finesse and clarity that balances subtle nuances of strawberry, dried red flowers and thyme with an earthy core of blood and iron. It is a very fine premier cru from Nuits-Saint-Georges and proves that finesse can exist in this appellation, even if it’s a good distance from Vosne Romanée.

INFORMATION DISCLAIMER

Terroir: This wine is a persuasive response to those who snub Nuits-Saint-Georges as a village with too much grit and too little finesse. Indeed its confident, tannic grip may not appeal to those who insist Burgundy be over-refined, forgetting it can have structure and muscle. However, this wine grown from 60 year-old vines facing south and southeast shows wonderful elegance and subtlety in its savory range of characteristics and the high elevation of the vineyard and its whole cluster fermentation, restrains an obvious, low-hanging fruitiness.

Vinification: Stems are included in all Duband wines (average: 30-40% for entry-level, 70-80% on Village/1er Cru, 80-100% Grand Cru). Small dose of SO2 (7ppm) is made at crush. Pigeage (punchdowns) is made by foot to not break stems and begins after fermentation starts—5 to 7 total. Remontage (pump overs) only used if there is H2S (reductive elements) which is very common in organic wines. 17-18 day fermentation, pressed and settled in tanks 2-3 weeks to allow for whole cluster ferments to settle more clearly—destemmed ferments clarify quicker. Racked for the first time before the end of the year.

Aging: Aged 14 months in 225l barrels (50% old wood on Grand Cru, 60-70% old wood on all others), racked to steel tanks 2 months before bottling. No fining or filtration.

(Subjective and based on young wines)

General Impressions:

Aromatic, Bright, Red Fruit, Textured, Mineral, Clean, Angular

Mineral Impressions:

Lightly SaltySaltyMetalMineralWet StoneFlintGraphiteReductivePetrol

Ageability:

Drink YoungShort-Term BenefitsLong-Term BenefitsUnknown

Technical Precision:

NatureModerateNurture

Intensity:

SubtleVigorousElectric

Core:

LitheMediumDense

Acidity:

LightMediumFullElectric

Texture:

LitheMediumDense

Body:

LightMediumFull

Tannin:

NoneLightMediumFull

Finish:

FrontMiddleBack

Wood Presence:

NoneSubtleNoticeable

The Vineyard

Soil:

The soils are small limestone fragments and clay, unlike those from the southern hill with harder stones, which generally make harder wines by comparison.

Farming:

SustainableOrganic CertifiedBiodynamic CertifiedUncertified Naturalist

Irrigation:

ForbiddenNeverSometimes

Vine Age:

Planted in 1980 (30%), 1950s (70%)

Altitude:

270

Aspect:

S/SE

Slope:

Medium slope
(typical numbers; not vintage specific)

Enological Additions:

Sulfur Dioxide. Vegan wine.

Total SO2:

None AddedVery LowLowMediumHigh

Alcohol:

12.9-13.1

pH:

N/A

Titratable Acidity:

N/A

Residual Sugar:

>1

Notes compiled in 2019 by Ted Vance (The Source) and David Duband

About The Wine

This wine is the most persuasive response to those who snub Nuits-Saint-Georges as a village with too much grit and too little finesse. Indeed its confident, tannic grip may not appeal to those who insist Burgundy be over-refined, forgetting it can have structure and muscle. However, this wine grown from 60 year-old vines facing south and southeast shows wonderful elegance and subtlety in its savory range of characters.

The soils are small limestone fragments and clay, unlike those from the southern hill with harder stones, which generally make harder wines by comparison. The high elevation of the vineyard and a 70% whole cluster fermentation, restrains an obvious, low-hanging fruitiness. The result is a wine of striking finesse and clarity that balances subtle nuances of strawberry, dried red flowers and thyme with an earthy core of blood and iron. It is a very fine premier cru from Nuits-Saint-Georges and proves that finesse can exist in this appellation, even if it’s a good distance from Vosne Romanée.