Terra Brava

Terra Brava - Breo
Terra Brava - Vineyards

The Story

Breogan (Breo) Rodriguez, a bagpipe player, spear fisherman, tile layer, former heavy metal rocker and one of the Ribeira Sacra’s quietly rising stars, was a rebel as a child, and not much has changed. He’s never been one to follow the rules, and his choice to forgo putting the now cult-famous DO (Denominación de Origen) Ribeira Sacra on his label is true to this spirit. The decision lets him follow his own ideas rather than adhering to the regional laws outlined by the DO, and his move is an increasingly common practice among winegrowers in Spain who find these wine laws antiquated and restrictive.

Breo wants to explore less the well-known grapes (like Caiño Longo) that Mencia pushed aside simply because it’s so easy to grow and produce high yields. The cult of rebellious personality aside, Breo might be one of the most friendly and gentle people one could come across in a lifetime. His wines are just like him in personality and stature (he’s a lean wire of a man), and for a somewhat new winegrower he demonstrates an unusually precise touch in the cellar.

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Breo seems to be half billy goat (necessary in these parts), doing everything by hand in his steeply terraced vineyards. He is deeply connected to the nature on his land and employs only treatments of sulfur and copper (both necessary in 99.9% of all wine regions in Europe, including organic and biodynamic farming for the management of powdery and downey mildew—the scourge of all European vineyards). All the weeds and grasses are maintained by hand with weedwackers—never herbicides, and he uses no fertilizers or pesticides.

In the cellar he is also hands-on. He uses all of the clusters during the two-month partial carbonic fermentations, and there are no punch downs or pumpovers made along the way other than a gentle push of the cap by hand each day back into the juice to keep the grapes healthy. There are only old barrels and stainless steel aging tanks found in his garage-sized cellar and none of his wines are manipulated by the use of unnatural enological products. His wines are clean, beautiful and deeply textured, and crafted with a great attention to detail.

A little more: The backstory of Terra Brava began with Breo’s father, José Manuel. For José’s retirement from banking his colleagues got him off to a good start by buying him a three hectare piece of undeveloped ancient vineyard land in Amandi, perhaps the most well-known wine sub-region within Spain’s Ribeira Sacra. He immediately began his new project, but a lifelong dream of working in one of the world’s most breathtaking and inspiring vineyard lands was cut short by his unexpected passing, and his dream was left to Breo.

Lay of the Land

Breo’s wines come from three hectares of steeply terraced vineyards in the Amandi sub-region of Galicia’s the now cult famous and extreme wine region, the Ribeira Sacra. His vines are planted on a south and southwestern face principally on gneiss rock (the same principal mother rock of Austria’s Wachau and parts of the neighboring Kremstal and Kamptal) and granite (like in many parts of France’s Northern Rhône Valley and Corsica, for example). These soils are very acidic and as with grapes grown in similar pHs, the wines tend toward the savory and earthy side of the spectrum. Of course there is a good dose of fruit in his wines, but it is not their front-running characteristic.

The climate here is influenced by both the Atlantic (only about seventy miles away toward the west as the crow flies) and the Mediterranean, which is hard to imagine being that this region is so far north and deep into the mountains of Galicia, and more than 500 miles away. This tug of war between bodies of water can bring beautiful balance to a growing season, but as demonstrated in more recent vintages it can also break the spirit of the winegrowers just days before a harvest with hail storms that take out an entire year of work and severely impact the quantities of the year that follows.

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Because of the extreme nature of this region’s topography, climate and spare soil depth, Breogan’s red wines are fresh, somewhat angular and deeply textured. The mouthfeel carries heavy impression of metal and mineral, similar to regions like France’s Northern Rhône wines grown on gneiss, granite and schist—quite similar to a Côte Rôtie, Saint-Joseph or Cornas. Not surprisingly, the gneiss and granite soils here are the rock and soil type that most dominates his extraordinarily steeply terraced vineyards (like most of the vineyards within the Amandi area of Galicia’s Ribeira Sacra) facing toward the south and southwest.

Extra: The Galician Massif is one of the oldest geological formations in Europe. The Iberian Peninsula was once in a totally different position and was twisted up north toward France (imagine the Pyrenees mountains being a sort of hinge point where the peninsula rotated northward) where it was connected to France’s Massif Amoricain (land of Muscadet and Anjou) as well as the Appalachian mountains in the Eastern United States. These mountains were all part of the supercontinent, Pangaea, and all the other areas mentioned previously were also part of this ancient continent; it’s no surprise that wines from these soil types can sometimes be connected by taste—they have the same soil parentage!

Lagar de Breo
Terra Brava - Vineyards
Ribeira Sacra
Lagar de Breo
Terra Brava - Vineyards

Terra Brava - 2017 Ribera Sacra, Lagar de Breo

Price: $44.00
Size: 750ml
Availability:

24+ in stock

Type of Wine: Red
Grape(s): 95% Caiño Longo, 5% Mencia
Style: Mineral, Rich

The Wine

Inside the Bottle: Lagar do Breo is made with 95% Caiño Longo, an indigenous grape varietal specific to this area of the Iberian Peninsula that has caught our full attention—and perhaps soon the wine world’s attention. It can be freakishly acidic for a red wine, but it also delivers a full range of complexities that are undeniably unique and noble. This must be the most overlooked mega-talent in the list of the world’s top noble and unique grapes, at least from what I’ve tasted. To me, it seems so far above the cut of red grapes I’ve tasted in Galicia that I’d be willing to bet it will become a bit of a cult varietal given that it’s rare and often blended with other grapes to curb its enthusiasm.

I guess one could criticize Caiño Longo for not being so subtle in palate feel, but the wine as a whole can be layered with a tremendous range of complexity that would stand tall next to the world’s best. The first taste of every bottle will definitely get your attention, much like the first time you may have tasted a white wine from the hills of Brézé, in France’s Loire Valley. There is some kind of rage inside Caiño Longo and its naturally high acidity hums like an overhead power line. From what I’ve tasted thus far from Galicia (which admittedly is not much compared to other importers who have been working in these parts much longer), the fruit character of Caiño Longo wines seem to veer toward the red spectrum (apparently, its close relatives, Caiño da Terra and Caiño Redondo, from the neighboring region, Rias Baixas, are more typically a balsamic tint of red, with a slightly darker fruit spectrum) despite Breo’s version of this being darker in color. Instead of pushing against nature to find more red tones, he has embraced the sun-filled south and southwest aspects of his vineyards that naturally push red grapes to a darker shade, despite the cooler temperatures in the final ripening phase of the season.

Much like a great Côte Rôtie or Cornas, you must take your time with this wine to see all it has to offer. There are layers and layers of goodness to discover and given that there are so few wines made with almost 100% Caiño Longo, it would be a waste (but not entirely) to gulp it down and not give it the time to rise as tall as it can go.

The details: Like the other wines from Breo, there was 100% stem inclusion (a good thing if only to try to soften the acidic tension) for its sixty-day, natural yeast fermentation and post fermentation maceration, and it spends nine months in old French oak barrels before bottling. There are no forceful extractions made during the vinification except a gentle pushdown by hand of the cap into the must to keep it healthy during fermentation. It's raised in old French oak barrels with no enological additions made to the wine except a single addition of sulfur at bottling. (The total sulfur in the wine is low at less than 20mg/l.)

INFORMATION DISCLAIMER

Terroir: Breo’s wines come from three hectares of steeply terraced vineyards in the Amandi sub-region of Galicia’s Ribeira Sacra, on Spain’s ancient Galician Massif. The vines face south and southwest on shallow decomposed gneiss and slate, the mother rock of these vineyards. Cool air from the Atlantic and warm air from the Mediterranean influences the climate, creating a tug of war that brings beautiful balance to a growing season. This is extreme wine country in every way—hot summer days, cold nights, heavy rains, unexpected hailstorms in the summer, etc.

Vinification: 100% whole cluster partial carbonic fermentation for 40-50 days with natural yeasts in 1500 liter plastic bins. Extraction is done by hand in the "infusion" style (gentle pushdown of the cap only inches) with slightly more pressure than he does with Mencia because the Caiño Longo clusters are bigger and stronger. It's then basket pressed, tank settled for 10 days in stainless and the first SO2 addition depends on the quality of the grapes and can happen before fermentation—good year nothing is added; in a difficult year less than 10ppm. Malolactic fermentation is always completed.

Aging: 10-12 months in old 225l barrels (older than 10 years)

(Subjective and based on young wines)

General Impressions:

Aromatic, Earthy, Mineral, Textured, Red and Dark Fruit, High-toned and Energetic

Mineral Impressions:

Lightly SaltySaltyMetalMineralWet StoneFlintGraphiteReductivePetrol

Ageability:

Drink YoungShort-Term BenefitsLong-Term BenefitsUnknown

Technical Precision:

NatureModerateNurture

Intensity:

SubtleVigorousElectric

Core:

LitheMediumDense

Acidity:

LightMediumFullElectric

Texture:

LitheMediumDense

Body:

LightMediumFull

Tannin:

NoneLightMediumFull

Finish:

FrontMiddleBack

Wood Presence:

NoneSubtleNoticeable

The Vineyard

Soil:

Pizarra (slate) and gneiss bedrock; shallow topsoils (30-50cm)

Farming:

SustainableOrganic CertifiedBiodynamic CertifiedUncertified Naturalist

Irrigation:

ForbiddenNeverSometimes

Vine Age:

Planted between 1995 and 2018

Altitude:

400-500

Aspect:

S/SW
(typical numbers; not vintage specific)

Enological Additions:

Sulfur Dioxide.

Total SO2:

None AddedVery LowLowMediumHigh

Alcohol:

12.5-13.5

pH:

3.60-3.75

Titratable Acidity:

7.0-8.0

Residual Sugar:

>1

Notes compiled in 2019 by Ted Vance (The Source) and Breogan Rodriguez (Terra Brava)

About The Wine

Inside the Bottle: Lagar do Breo is made with 95% Caiño Longo, an indigenous grape varietal specific to this area of the Iberian Peninsula that has caught our full attention—and perhaps soon the wine world’s attention. It can be freakishly acidic for a red wine, but it also delivers a full range of complexities that are undeniably unique and noble. This must be the most overlooked mega-talent in the list of the world’s top noble and unique grapes, at least from what I’ve tasted. To me, it seems so far above the cut of red grapes I’ve tasted in Galicia that I’d be willing to bet it will become a bit of a cult varietal given that it’s rare and often blended with other grapes to curb its enthusiasm.

I guess one could criticize Caiño Longo for not being so subtle in palate feel, but the wine as a whole can be layered with a tremendous range of complexity that would stand tall next to the world’s best. The first taste of every bottle will definitely get your attention, much like the first time you may have tasted a white wine from the hills of Brézé, in France’s Loire Valley. There is some kind of rage inside Caiño Longo and its naturally high acidity hums like an overhead power line. From what I’ve tasted thus far from Galicia (which admittedly is not much compared to other importers who have been working in these parts much longer), the fruit character of Caiño Longo wines seem to veer toward the red spectrum (apparently, its close relatives, Caiño da Terra and Caiño Redondo, from the neighboring region, Rias Baixas, are more typically a balsamic tint of red, with a slightly darker fruit spectrum) despite Breo’s version of this being darker in color. Instead of pushing against nature to find more red tones, he has embraced the sun-filled south and southwest aspects of his vineyards that naturally push red grapes to a darker shade, despite the cooler temperatures in the final ripening phase of the season.

Much like a great Côte Rôtie or Cornas, you must take your time with this wine to see all it has to offer. There are layers and layers of goodness to discover and given that there are so few wines made with almost 100% Caiño Longo, it would be a waste (but not entirely) to gulp it down and not give it the time to rise as tall as it can go.

The details: Like the other wines from Breo, there was 100% stem inclusion (a good thing if only to try to soften the acidic tension) for its sixty-day, natural yeast fermentation and post fermentation maceration, and it spends nine months in old French oak barrels before bottling. There are no forceful extractions made during the vinification except a gentle pushdown by hand of the cap into the must to keep it healthy during fermentation. It’s raised in old French oak barrels with no enological additions made to the wine except a single addition of sulfur at bottling. (The total sulfur in the wine is low at less than 20mg/l.)