Weingut Tegernseerhof

Tegernseerhof vineyard
Tegernseerhof vineyard
Tegernseerhof vineyard
Tegernseerhof vineyard
Tegernseerhof vineyard
Tegernseerhof vineyard
Tegernseerhof vineyard
Tegernseerhof vineyard
Tegernseerhof vineyard
Tegernseerhof vineyard
Tegernseerhof vineyard
Tegernseerhof vineyard
Tegernseerhof vineyard

Photography and writing by Ted Vance.

Martin Mittelbach is a Wachau insider with an outsider’s perspective. He is the fifth generation of Mittelbachs to run the historical Tegernseerhof, an estate that goes further back than 1000 years. Despite the estate’s historical merit you couldn’t find a much more progressive winemaker with his own set of standards and way of thinking in this region. Martin took over the estate at a very young age and immediately changed the way things were done. As you could imagine, there was some friction with his father who preferred to make wines more on the sweeter side. Today, you would be hard pressed to find a more dry and straight style in the Wachau. The grapes are harvested and sorted rigorously to take out any botrytis grapes and then vinified and raised in stainless steel. They are harvested with no botrytis to keep the wines focused and tense. His wines are like his personality: intense, focused and highly intellectual. These laser beams are as far away from the often baroque style that can be found in this region. In every level his wines excel and can stand tall next to any of the greatest producers in Austria.

Weingut Tegernseerhof Ried Kellerberg Riesling

Weingut Tegernseerhof - 2021 Riesling, Smaragd, “Kellerberg”

Price: $53.00
Size: 750ml
Availability: 

24+ in stock

Type of Wine: White
Grape(s): 100% Riesling
Style: High acid, Mineral

GROWER OVERVIEW

Fifth generation winegrower, Martin Mittelbach runs the historical Wachau winery, Tegernseerhof, which dates back more than a thousand years. Organically certified in the early 2020s, their Riesling vineyards are mostly located on the steep upper terraces composed of gneiss, and the Grüner Veltliners (except the cru, Hohereck, which is on a steep gneiss slope) are on lower loess terraces of the Wachau’s most eastern end, Loiben. All the grapes are harvested by hand and carefully sorted to remove any botrytis grapes that add unnecessary weight to Martin’s razor-sharp wines aged on their lees and exclusively in steel vats. All grapes are whole-cluster pressed and fermented naturally (unless sluggish) and sometimes go through malolactic fermentation, though in principle it is not desired. All wines are filtered, a necessity to remove any remaining malic acid bacteria from the inhibited malolactic fermentations, and the Grüner Veltliners are fined, also a necessary technique for this extremely protein-heavy variety.

VINEYARD DETAILS

Tegernseerhof’s six parcels inside Ried Kellerberg Riesling were planted in the late 1990s on a south/southeast exposition at 204-336m on very steep terraces. The bedrock is gneiss and topsoil a mix of mostly gneiss and some loess.

CELLAR NOTES

Whole cluster maceration 6-36 hours. Natural fermentation in steel 1-2 months at 23°C max. Aged on lees 6-9 months in steel. First sulfites normally added after primary. Malolactic is rare. Fined and filtered.

About The Wine

Inside the bottle: If one were to ask a knowledgable wine professional about the greatest vineyards in Austria, the Wachau’s Kellerberg would likely be mentioned in their first breath.

Kellerberg, or “Cellar Mountain,” is without a doubt one of the Wachau’s greatest vineyards. Regal and profound in nearly every aspect, from structural elements, to the balance of power and subtlety, this wine has no notable weakness. To attempt to describe all the nuances of this wine would be a paragraph with no end. However, to better understand the wine’s nature it would be easier to demonstrate it by an explanation of its terroir. The hill faces southeast, giving it good morning sun but giving it an earlier sunset than its neighboring top reisling vineyards, Loibenberg and Steinertal. The hill is exposed to an open ravine that brings in a rush of cool air during the night. The aspect and exposure to this ravine allows the fruit to mature to ripeness without giving it with excessive fruitiness. The fruits range from yellow apple, pair, yellow and white stone fruit, dried citrus and far into fruity tea notes; the list goes on. It has a deep range of soils, from volcanic, loess and gneiss; Tegernseerhof has six parcels that cover all the soil types. The loess gives richness while the gneiss, tension and focus. More important than the specifics detailed nuances is the way this wine makes you feel: the energy, the profound reservation and at the same time, it’s generosity. The Kellerberg is a formidable wine and comfortably sits amongst the world’s greatest.